Chapter 12 · Life on the Ground

Living in
Beijing

Schwarzman College is a 200,000-square-foot building designed to be everything you need. That is both its greatest strength and the thing that will limit your experience if you let it. Here is what daily life actually looks like, from internet censorship to the campus bubble to the $4,000 stipend.

The Building That Defines Your Year

Schwarzman College is not a dorm. It is a self-contained residential college spanning 200,000 square feet, designed by Robert A.M. Stern Architects, the same firm behind multiple buildings at Yale and the George W. Bush Presidential Library. It earned LEED Gold certification, making it the first such building in China. The architecture blends traditional Chinese courtyard design with modern institutional aesthetics, and the whole thing cost roughly $580 million to build.

Inside you will find a gym that multiple scholars have compared to an Equinox, a swimming pool, a dining hall serving both Chinese and western food, seminar rooms, a 500-seat auditorium, study lounges, and filtered air and water throughout. Every scholar gets a private room with an en-suite bathroom. The air filtration system is not decorative; Beijing's air quality regularly hits hazardous levels, and the building's system keeps indoor air clean regardless of what is happening outside.

By any objective measure, this is one of the finest residential academic buildings in the world. The problem, as we will get into, is that it is designed so well that you never have to leave.

The Core Tension

The Bubble Problem

The most common criticism from alumni is not about the academics or the internet. It is about the isolation.

What the Bubble Looks Like

Schwarzman College is a self-contained campus within the broader Tsinghua University. Security guards check everyone entering the building. Your meals are served inside. Your classes happen inside. Your gym, your pool, your social events, your speaker series, all of it happens within these walls. One scholar described a running joke about who could go the longest without leaving the building. Some managed weeks.

The building's facilities are significantly better than what the rest of Tsinghua's 30,000+ students have access to. Regular Tsinghua students study in crowded libraries and eat in basic canteens. Schwarzman scholars have an Equinox-level gym and a western cafeteria. This gap is visible, and it creates a low-level resentment from Chinese students that most scholars notice at some point during the year.

Why It Matters

The stated purpose of Schwarzman Scholars is to prepare leaders to understand China and navigate a world shaped by its rise. Living inside a hermetically sealed building with 150 other international scholars, eating western food, and speaking English all day does not achieve that. Scholars who rely on the program's structure alone come away with a surface-level understanding of China at best.

The program's own alumni have written about this tension. The Effective Altruism Forum review noted that "passive participation yields minimal returns beyond credential value." The bubble is comfortable. The filtered air is clean. The food is good. But if you wanted comfortable, you did not need to move to Beijing.

Digital Reality

Internet Censorship and VPNs

This is the thing that catches people off guard more than anything else about living in China.

What Is Blocked

China's Great Firewall blocks Google (all services including Gmail, Google Docs, Google Scholar, and Google Maps), YouTube, Facebook, Instagram, Twitter/X, WhatsApp, Reddit, most western news sites, Wikipedia (intermittently), and essentially the entire western internet ecosystem you rely on daily. If your workflow depends on any Google product, you will need to find alternatives or use a VPN.

The Tsinghua campus network is no exception. You are behind the Great Firewall just like everyone else in China. There is no special academic exemption for Schwarzman scholars.

The VPN Reality

Almost everyone in the program uses a VPN. That is just the practical reality. Without one, you cannot access Gmail, submit assignments through Google platforms, or stay in touch with family through most western messaging apps.

However, VPN use in China exists in a legal grey area that has been tightening. It is increasingly dangerous to use VPNs. Fines are possible, and there have been reported cases of individuals being penalized. The government periodically cracks down on VPN services, especially around politically sensitive dates, which means your VPN may stop working at the worst possible moments.

The Schwarzman program does not officially endorse or provide VPNs. Staff will not recommend one to you on the record. You are on your own to figure out the solution, which most scholars do within the first week.

Practical Tips From Alumni

  • Download and set up your VPN before arriving in China. You cannot download most VPN apps once you are behind the firewall.
  • Have multiple VPN providers as backup. When one goes down during a crackdown, you need a fallback.
  • Set up a Chinese phone number and WeChat immediately. WeChat is the primary communication tool for everything in China, from group chats with classmates to paying for street food.
  • Shift your email and documents to platforms that work in China where possible. Some scholars migrate to Outlook or local alternatives for non-sensitive communication.
  • Accept that your internet will be slow and unreliable compared to what you are used to. Even with a good VPN, latency is high and speeds fluctuate.
Making the Most of It

Getting Beyond the Walls

The scholars who get the most out of this year are the ones who actively fight the bubble. Nobody is going to push you out the door.

Organized Trips

The Student Life team organizes exploration trips throughout the year. These include visits to the Summer Palace, Lama Temple, and other cultural landmarks in Beijing, as well as longer travel throughout China. Deep Dive field trips take scholars to different provinces to study regional economic and political dynamics firsthand.

These are valuable, but they are curated experiences. You are seeing China through a program lens, with translators and guides and pre-arranged meetings. That is useful but not the same as navigating it yourself.

Internships

The program includes an internship period, typically in the spring. Some scholars intern at Chinese companies, government-adjacent organizations, or multinational firms with Beijing offices. The quality and depth of these internships varies enormously. Some scholars get genuinely embedded in Chinese organizations; others end up in token roles at international firms where everyone speaks English.

The scholars who land meaningful internships are almost always the ones who started networking and exploring options months before the internship period begins.

On Your Own

The most transformative experiences tend to be the ones scholars create for themselves. Taking the subway to a neighborhood with no English signage. Finding a local restaurant where the menu has no pictures. Joining a Tsinghua student club that operates entirely in Chinese. Volunteering with a Beijing-based organization on weekends.

Beijing is a city of 21 million people with thousands of years of history. The fraction of it you will see from inside Schwarzman College is essentially zero. Getting out requires effort, but the city rewards it.

Money

The $4,000 Stipend

Your personal spending money for the entire year. Here is how far it actually goes.

What the Stipend Covers

The $4,000 personal stipend is meant to cover everything beyond what the program provides directly. Your tuition, housing, meals in the Schwarzman dining hall, flights to and from Beijing, health insurance, and a laptop are all covered separately. The stipend is for personal expenses: going out to eat, travel within China on weekends, buying things you need, entertainment, and day-to-day living costs.

Spread over the roughly nine-month academic year, that works out to about $440 per month. Scholars report typical personal expenses of $120 to $250 per month for those who are not trying to live lavishly. China is affordable for basics. A meal at a local restaurant costs $2 to $5. A subway ride is under $1. A weekend trip to another Chinese city can be done for $50 to $100 if you book trains and budget hotels.

Typical Monthly Breakdown

Local dining and snacks $40 - $80
Transportation (subway, taxi) $15 - $30
Phone plan and VPN $10 - $20
Weekend travel (averaged) $30 - $80
Personal items and misc $20 - $40
Estimated monthly total $120 - $250

Bottom line: The $4,000 is tight but workable if you are not spending aggressively. Most scholars find it sufficient for a comfortable year. If you want to do extensive independent travel across China or Southeast Asia during breaks, you may want to supplement it with personal savings. The program does not provide additional funding beyond the stipend.

The Surroundings

Tsinghua University and Beijing

One of Asia's most prestigious universities, set in former imperial gardens, in a city that is simultaneously ancient and futuristic.

The Campus

Tsinghua University sits on the grounds of former Qing Dynasty imperial gardens in the Haidian district of northwestern Beijing. The campus is expansive and genuinely beautiful, with traditional Chinese gardens, lotus ponds, and a mix of historic and modern architecture. With over 30,000 students, it is a small city in itself, complete with banks, post offices, supermarkets, and dozens of canteens.

Tsinghua is often called the "MIT of China" and is consistently ranked as the top university in Asia. Walking around campus, you are surrounded by some of the brightest students in a country of 1.4 billion people. That context alone should motivate you to look beyond the walls of Schwarzman College.

Location in Beijing

Haidian is the university district, not central Beijing. The Forbidden City, Tiananmen Square, and the main commercial areas are a 40-to-60-minute subway ride away. This is not like studying in central London or Manhattan where the city is right outside your door. Getting to the interesting parts of Beijing requires deliberate effort and time.

That said, Beijing's subway system is extensive, cheap, and efficient. The city itself is enormous and endlessly varied, from the hutong alleyways of the old city to the gleaming towers of the CBD to the art districts of 798 and Caochangdi. You could spend a decade exploring Beijing and not run out of new things to find. The question is whether you will bother to leave campus to do it.

Access

Guest Speakers and Events

One of the genuine advantages of living in Schwarzman College. The speaker lineup is exceptional.

The program brings a caliber of speakers that most people will never have access to outside of a television screen. Past visitors have included Tony Blair (former UK Prime Minister), Christine Lagarde (President of the European Central Bank), Ban Ki-moon (former UN Secretary-General), Condoleezza Rice (former US Secretary of State), Fareed Zakaria (CNN host and author), and Yao Ming (basketball legend and Chinese sports icon).

These are not distant auditorium lectures. The 500-seat venue inside the building creates a more intimate setting than you would get at a major university. Some speakers do smaller sessions with groups of scholars. The networking opportunities around these events, particularly with the Chinese business and political leaders who attend, can be significant if you are proactive about them.

This is where the bubble actually works in your favor. Because everything happens inside the building, you are in proximity to these speakers in a way that students at larger institutions simply are not. Take advantage of it.

Personal Life

Spouse or Partner

If you have a spouse or partner, the program's support is essentially nonexistent. Partners must live off-campus, and the program provides no funding, housing assistance, or visa help for accompanying family members. Your partner would need to secure their own visa to be in China, find their own housing in Beijing, and cover their own expenses entirely.

Beijing housing near Tsinghua is not cheap by Chinese standards, though it is significantly cheaper than New York or London. A small apartment in Wudaokou, the neighborhood adjacent to campus, runs roughly $500 to $900 per month depending on size and quality. Your $4,000 stipend was not designed to cover a second person's living costs.

This is a meaningful consideration for applicants with partners. Some scholars manage it, but it requires separate financial planning and the understanding that your partner's experience in Beijing will be quite different from yours. They will not have access to the Schwarzman building, the events, or the community.

What Partners Need to Know

  • Housing: Must arrange independently. Wudaokou area is closest to campus.
  • Visa: No sponsorship from the program. Tourist visas require exits every 30-60 days. A work visa or student visa requires separate arrangements.
  • Funding: Zero financial support from Schwarzman. Budget independently.
  • Employment: Working in China legally requires a work permit, which is difficult to obtain without employer sponsorship.
  • Language: Beijing is not an easy city for non-Chinese speakers. English proficiency outside of universities and international hotels is limited.
  • Social life: Your partner will need to build their own community. Expat groups and language exchange meetups exist but require initiative to find.
Beyond Campus

Exploration and Travel

The Student Life team organizes cultural excursions and the program includes Deep Dive travel. But the best discoveries are usually your own.

Beijing Landmarks

The Student Life team arranges visits to major cultural sites: the Summer Palace, the Lama Temple (Yonghe Temple), the Great Wall, the Temple of Heaven, and the hutong neighborhoods. These trips are typically group excursions with guides and provide a structured introduction to the city's history.

Travel Throughout China

Deep Dive trips take scholars to different Chinese provinces to study regional economic development, governance, and culture. Past destinations have included Shenzhen, Shanghai, Chengdu, and Xi'an. These multi-day trips include company visits, government briefings, and cultural immersion that would be difficult to arrange independently.

Independent Exploration

China's high-speed rail network makes independent travel remarkably easy and affordable. Beijing to Shanghai is 4.5 hours. Beijing to Xi'an is about 5 hours. Weekends and breaks are your opportunity to see the country on your own terms, without a program itinerary dictating where you go and what you see.

The Honest Summary

Living in Beijing as a Schwarzman Scholar is comfortable in a way that can become its own trap. The building is world-class. The speakers are extraordinary. The stipend is enough. The internet situation is manageable with preparation. But the default experience, if you do not fight for more, is spending nine months in a very nice building with 150 other international students and leaving China having barely scratched the surface of the country you came to understand.

The scholars who rave about the experience years later are almost universally the ones who treated the building as a base camp rather than a destination. They joined Tsinghua clubs, found local friends, traveled on weekends, and made the effort to engage with Beijing on its own terms. The scholars who found the year underwhelming are usually the ones who let the bubble define their experience.

Ready to Start Your Application?

Now that you know what life in Beijing actually looks like, make sure the rest of your application is airtight. Start with the eligibility requirements or jump straight to the application guide.